Any do it yourself'ers out there?

Discussion in 'Life After Brown' started by Channahon, Jul 2, 2007.

  1. Channahon

    Channahon New Member

    My husband and I are currently adding outside living space to our house. We are in the process of adding a multi level deck and a patio.
    In digging the post holes, which have to be 42" deep, my husband is using an auger with an 8" blade. My part of the project is to remove the dirt from the holes as he moves around the other 14 holes that need to be dug out. At first I was using a "post hole" digger to get the dirt out of the hole. After a couple hours, I thought there must be an easier way to get the dirt/clay out of the hole.
    I always noticed the shop vac in the garage, and never gave it much thought, as I generally don't use it. I started to use the shop vac to suction out the dirt. What a diffence this made, as my husband would stop at one hole at a certain depth, I would take out the dirt/clay and he would have a clean starting point again.
    Just thought I would share this tip, if there is anyone else out there putting up a deck or fence.

    Has done a patio with stamped concrete? Just wondering if that is better than pavers. Any other shortcuts or tips for outdoor living spaces?
     
  2. DS

    DS Fenderbender

    sounds like youve got it all down...one thing I may suggest that a sales rep did at his house to accolades...put a layer of quality mosquito netting
    around the outside deck...nail it in...the little bastards see the light but they cant get in...
     
  3. satellitedriver

    satellitedriver Moderator Staff Member

    Why are you going 42" deep with your postholes? That sounds excessive, since your hole is only 8" wide and is only going to support decking. The only reason I could see is if you were building on fill dirt and try to reach original soil.
    Stamped concrete is a job worth paying a professional to do. There are many cool pavers. Labor intensive to do right, but very attractive. Plus, the added benefit that they can be removed. You put concrete down and stamp it badly and you will be living with it a long time.
    No offense, but an auger removes the dirt from the hole as it drills. If you just use a shovel to remove the loose dirt from around the auger before it is lifted out of the hole there is no loose dirt left in the hole. Drill a foot deep and lift the auger( not completely out of the hole), repeat another foot ect...
    Living in the country for the last 30 yr's I have built barns,decks and fences and all are still standing square and plum.
    There are no shortcuts but there are some tips. Be a little more specific with your projects and maybe my I can help.
    Pax
     
  4. Covemastah

    Covemastah Suspension Ovah !!! Tom is free FU Goodell !!

    42'' is probaly code for the frost line ! i know 36 '' is here in taxachussetts 14 holes??? are you building a skyscraper??????:lol::lol::lol:
     
  5. Channahon

    Channahon New Member

    Thanks for all your input.

    We won't be doing the patio, the deck is enough work. The 42" deep holes are per code where we live. In addition to the deck, we are creating a walkway across the property, that will bridge over a creek to the other side of our wooded lot. That's the reason for 14 post holes.

    Good point about the mosquitoes and any other flying insects out there.
     
  6. Covemastah

    Covemastah Suspension Ovah !!! Tom is free FU Goodell !!

    sounds like a big job! good luck !!!
     
  7. area43

    area43 New Member

    Channahon, In putting it all together, I hope your using screws. Im a big screw man myself. Nailing things, just dont seem to stay together better. One thing about screwing is that you can back it out easliely if you go in crokied. Pre drilling is usaually the best way to go. Then your screw will go in nice and easy. Sometimes the screw will break off at the base, because of tooo much torque. That sucks. Well I hope this tip helps you out. Happy screwing. ( :
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2007
  8. moreluck

    moreluck golden ticket member

    Screwing

    Too much torque

    Nice & easy

    Excuse me a moment please.......:blushing:
     
  9. area43

    area43 New Member

    Hey more, get your mind out of the gutter,lmao. That never even crossed my mind. ( ; ps but now that I think about it. LOL I think Ill have to be excused toooo. Honey!!!!!.............
     
  10. Channahon

    Channahon New Member

    Area 343

    Planning on using drywall screws - would you agree or have another suggestion. The posts are all done and ready for inspection. Just need to order the rest of the materials. Anybody have suggestions for deck lighting?
     
  11. area43

    area43 New Member

    Channa, no way dry wall screws are for the interior. They will rust leaving your deck to collaspe. Galvanized screws are what you need(exterior screw). .

    I hope your posts were made of treated lumber, If not they will rot overnite, not that fast.lol but in time they will rot. Treated lumber is what you need for exterior work. The weather is a killer.
     
  12. toonertoo

    toonertoo Most Awesome Dog Staff Member

    Use deck screws coated with industrial coating, some are even colored to match the color of your deck , so if you have a big "deck", you may want to check into those.
    My husband got a load of paving brick at an auction today, we figured, we would pay a grand, he got them for 160$$$, of course when I got done at work, i had to go to the auction, and we each hauled 2 thousand pounds in 2 1500 chevys, good ole trucks. I figure each one wieghed 4 pds, @ 1000 bricks. They were a squattin, but we made it home, and then had to unload them,of course....:w00t: Im thinking overload fine of 180 per truck, times two sets of springs at 200 minimum per pair, would be the same as buying them at home depot, etc., but all is well which ends well, didnt have far to go, drove slow, no cops, what a deal. !!
    Guess what we are doing on my day off??
    AS for deck lighting, we use solar, got some bronze pillar like things, as we have no electric outside and want none. And candles and solar tree looking people on the deck. And tiki torches. Cheap, looks awesome at night, and no electrical needed.
     
  13. Channahon

    Channahon New Member

    I really appreciate all of your input. You see I'll be shopping with my husband, and he's great at all this stuff, I can suggest the industrial coated screws, he did use drywall screws about 20 years ago when he built our first deck.

    We plan on treated wood for the posts and framing, and cedar for the decking.

    For as big as this project is, it does take a lot of planning to have everything flow smoothly, as we are adding onto an existing deck.

    Although we took the day off today

    Happy 4th to all of you
     
  14. area43

    area43 New Member

    Chan, good point about the durability of the dry wall screw. That black phosphate coating, does add protection. Also they are a little cheaper than your standard galvanized decking screw. Longevity also depends on the climate that you live in. I didnt want to admit it, but I have used them sometimes on exterior projects. LOL ( :
     
  15. Channahon

    Channahon New Member

    Looking for tips again!!

    This year it's a paver patio and walkway through the woods. Anyone take on a project like this? Just having a hard time with patterns and selection of pavers.
     
  16. rod

    rod retired and happy

    Worst thing I ever did when I built my new house 5 years ago was to build the rear deck out of cedar. I built the front deck out of composite material ( never needs any staining or other maintenence) and that is the ONLY way to go unless you enjoy re- sealing and staining a cedar deck every 3-4 years. To put it bluntly- cedar decks are a pain to maintain.
     
  17. DS

    DS Fenderbender

    Hey SD or anyone that can give good advice ,we have a problem.
    Our townhouse is 8 years old,there is a small leak in the upstairs bathroom sink and it drips.(The leak is in the wall behind the sink)Over the 5 years we have lived here one drywall seam is showing visible evidence of water damage....should I rip out the celing myself and find the leak,or call someone to do it? I'm not much of a do it yourselfer, but if it saves me $1G I will do it.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2008
  18. edd_tv

    edd_tv Cardboard picker upper

    i would def check that out.if you dont feel comfortable doing it yourself have a home inspector or contractor take a look. with a bathroom being a high humidity enviroment there may be mold of other funky stuff going down.also you may have a problem farther away. ive seen rafters, pipes, joists have a funny way of channeling water away from the original source. my apt i had in college was like that. the bathtub leaked around the sides. every time i showered my downstairs neighbor got water in her closet(no pun) turns out it had been doing that for some time with the previous tenant. when the landlord had it fixed, rot and mold had set in on almost every part of that bathroom. it was amazing to see how the water had followed the studs and pipes and joists. my "water closet" was prolly 10 feet to the left of where her actual closet was. the water had followed a drainpipe on the outside then seaped into the studs and flooring. it was a mess. lots of damage.

    so long story short and not to scare you i would def check into it at least. you know the ole addage, an ounce of prevention....

    Good Luck!!!!! let us know what happens
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2008
  19. dilligaf

    dilligaf IN VINO VERITAS

    As far as using screws I would suggest using deck screws that require a square headed bit. They work much better ( we used them for our redwood deck) and are less likely to strip than using the screws that require philips head bits. Just be careful about the torque because they will twist off.
     
  20. satellitedriver

    satellitedriver Moderator Staff Member

    Need more info.
    I would cut :censored2: in the wall and look where the leak is coming from.
    PAX, Latin for peace