Going Feeders from 5 Years Part-Time "On-Topic"

[brett636]

How is this even possible ???

Its simple. The signup sheet is usually full of names, but I bet less than half of those called actually answer or even accept the job. Of those that do even fewer take the time to get the proper CDL permit and endorsements. It gets whittled down again when the training starts as some will just give up or flunk out. By the time all this happens the company goes through their list of names and doesn't have enough drivers so they begin bringing in off the street hires since they only post one list per hiring period. My building has seem tremendous growth over the last 5 years in volume which triggers these large hiring sprees of feeder drivers so instead of just needing 2-5 drivers at a time we need 25-30 which can't be filled just by inside employees alone.

 

[brett636]

Ya dad.....here's the scoop with feeders with your seniority. Generally, unless your really really lucky, once in feeders you will be on the qualified list...this means you are a delivery driver, combo driver...whatever, that is qualified to operate feeders. When needed, you will be called in seniority order. Once a position becomes avail as a full-time feeder driver, you can choose to bid full time into feeders but likely be a cover driver to start.

It could take 6 months, it could take 10 years or more to get a bid route, 10 years is the likely scenario if not more.

What you need to do is take a visit to your feeder office and look at the seniority list and see where you will fall, and take note of the vacations because generally the summer is not avail to most drivers unless you have alot of seniority.

Now the other important part. ..can you drive a manual transmission? If you can then you have a long way to go because commercial trucks, especially road tractors, don't have synchronized transmissions. You need to learn to shift by matching the rpms to the road speed and know what gear correlates....it's alot harder than you think.

You need to be able to demonstrate you can up shift and especially downshift, the backing is not your main concern right now.

Get the shifting down, second nature, then practice backing.

Good luck.

What you say about seniority holds true in a lot of buildings, but if you were giving this advice to someone in my building(and I suspect this person is) this would not hold true. Here we go by classification seniority so all new feeder drivers end up at the bottom of the seniority list. Doesn't matter if they are a 25 year package car driver or a 30 day part timer they go to the bottom. Over the last 5 years I have seen new drivers come in, get their 30 days, and end up on their own bid run. That is how fast this area has been growing. I believe its starting to catch up as the drivers at the bottom of the list these days will probably not have their own jobs for a couple of years, if not longer. You never know what the future holds.

 

[moldsporh]

My personal car is a 5 speed. The gears are opposite, though (1st is left-up, 2nd is left-down, 3rd is straight up, etc.)

Ok, the point I'm making is your manual trans and a truck manual are two completely different animals. You can't take off in 1st, depress the clutch and grab 2nd, it doesn't work that way.

If you haven't driven a truck manual (non-synchronized) then you need to practice....trust me on this. This will be your largest hurdle. If you go out grinding gears trying to slow down and can't get a gear, and rely on the brakes you will fail.

Good luck, practice, practice, practice.

 

[Ya Dad]

I talked to an acquaintance who went in from part-time with around the same company seniority I have now. He got in about a year and a half ago. Anyway, I told him that the told me it'd be a couple of weeks before they call me again for training. He said that he was told by the hiring supervisor (after he had gotten the call and signed all the papers, taken the drug test/background check, and filled out the transfer to go Feeders) that it would take a couple of weeks and then he'd get the call to go into training. He told me it took 4 months for them to call.

Fine with me. Gives me plenty of time to schedule a truck driving class at my local community college and get in on that tuition reimbursement!

 

[Pickles]

I work with PTers that did that. If I remember right it was a 40 hour a week class and a month long. Also, a couple thousand dollars.


But they all say it was well worth it and much better training than they got in their 40 hour UPS school.

 

[ibleedbrown]

in order to get the proper cdl permit you have to be able to pass a written exam? what are endorsements?

 

[moldsporh]

Not sure of your area, but you need a cdl instruction permit, class a with double and triple endorsement, then generally it's a 40hr unpaid week, then you take your state road test then finish your paid week.

UPS gives you 1 week to learn how to shift before your road test.

 

[olroadbeech]

in order to get the proper cdl permit you have to be able to pass a written exam? what are endorsements?

it's best to ask an on-road manager in the feeder dept. you will probably need to take the written test for doubles/triples/
haz-mat and air brakes. that is what i had to do , there may be more.

 

[Johney]

Not sure of your area, but you need a cdl instruction permit, class a with double and triple endorsement, then generally it's a 40hr unpaid week, then you take your state road test then finish your paid week.

UPS gives you 1 week to learn how to shift before your road test.

2 weeks. 1 unpaid week at school then 1 paid week with a supervisor doing runs(production week).

 

[Johney]

it's best to ask an on-road manager in the feeder dept. you will probably need to take the written test for doubles/triples/
haz-mat and air brakes. that is what i had to do , there may be more.

Combination
Air Brakes
Doubles/Triples
1 more I forgot but NO Haz-Mat at least not now.

 

[moldsporh]

2 weeks. 1 unpaid week at school then 1 paid week with a supervisor doing runs(production week).

Ok, I was under the impression your road test was before your paid week.....my mistake.

 

[olroadbeech]

Combination
Air Brakes
Doubles/Triples
1 more I forgot but NO Haz-Mat at least not now.

ok . thanks about the haz-mat. i'm sure they will tell him before he takes those tests. at our hub they paid for both weeks.

 

[Pickles]

In my building the road test happens before they allow you to go to the 40 hours school if you are part-time or off the street.

 

[barnyard]

at our hub they paid for both weeks.

My unproductive week was paid conditionally. I had to pass my CDL road test, had to qualify and stay on the qualified list for 3 years. It would have been an unpaid week had I not fulfilled one of the requirements.

During my non productive week, I had a day where my supervisor had to be in the building and he said to just spend the time doing backing practice. I should have spent that time, building and pretripping a set; taking a lap around the hub, dropping the back box, dolly and backing the front box to a door; repeat.

 

[hondo]

in order to get the proper cdl permit you have to be able to pass a written exam? what are endorsements?

For 'feeder' you you need to pass the written tests (to get your class A permit):

• General knowledge
• Air brakes
• Combination vehicles (tractor-trailer)
• Doubles/triples (endorsement)

 

[Ya Dad]

Update:

So that guy I talked to last week who went into Feeders from PT...he had 0 experience driving a tractor before going in. He said he didn't even know how to drive a manual transmission when he went into Feeders. All he did was study practice tests online to get his permit, and that's it. No truck driving school, no private lessons driving a tractor...nothin'. His first time in the seat of a tractor was when he went Feeders. I was talking on the phone with him, he had me on speaker phone, and I heard the supervisor in the background saying that he'd rather train someone with no experience at all with a manual transmission than someone with experience doing it the wrong way.

 

[olroadbeech]

Update:

So that guy I talked to last week who went into Feeders from PT...he had 0 experience driving a tractor before going in. He said he didn't even know how to drive a manual transmission when he went into Feeders. All he did was study practice tests online to get his permit, and that's it. No truck driving school, no private lessons driving a tractor...nothin'. His first time in the seat of a tractor was when he went Feeders. I was talking on the phone with him, he had me on speaker phone, and I heard the supervisor in the background saying that he'd rather train someone with no experience at all with a manual transmission than someone with experience doing it the wrong way.

that's true. a clean slate with UPS training is better than coming in with bad habits and training from other companies.

 

[Ya Dad]

They couldn't take my classification away because I was put in as a Bid Air Driver, but I work in centers now and I get my hub rate, which is about half my driver pay

I talked to another Union Steward this time because I'm curious what I will start out at when going Feeders. Because I am still classified as a Driver and I am at the end of my progression, he said that I should go in at my top rate until the Feeder progression surpasses that (as in, I'll probably go in at my Top Air Rate and it'll be frozen at that rate until I get a raise that would be higher than that rate, which likely won't be until the Top Feeder Rate 4 years later).

He also said not to contest that until I get my 30 days in...

 

[Ya Dad]

The Feeder Union Steward texted me tonight just moments ago. He says that it's really likely I will be going in for training on April 4th. Wish me luck!

Also, I tracked down a feeder supervisor who was finally able to get me some pre-trip papers to study. If they're not anywhere here on the site, i think it'd be a great thing to sticky for people who wanna get into Feeders. (will post it after this post)

 

[Ya Dad]

CDL PRETRIP INSPECTION
(Tractor/Trailer)

Front of Tractor
1. Check lights - clean, working, no damage, proper color (amber or clear). Includes running lights, headlights, turn signals, hazards, fog
2. Check for leaks - no puddles or drips under the truck (oil, coolant, ps fluid, etc)

Engine Compartment
1. Oil - level, condition (no leaks)
2. Coolant - level, condition (no leaks)
3. Alternator - wires are right and not frayed. Alternator is not loose, no missing bolts
4. Water pump - no leaks (pump/hoses), mounted securely. Determine if water pump is belt/gear driven
5. Power steering fluid - level, no leaks from hoses
6. Air compressor - air lines not leaking, securely attached (determine if belt or gear driven)
7. Belts/hoses - tight, not cracked, worn, or frayed or leaking. Belt deflection should be 1/2" to 3/4". Be sure to identify what components each belt drives

Steering components
1. Gear box - box/hoses securely attached, not loose, cracked, or damaged. Not leaking
2. Linkage - not loose, worn or cracked. No missing bolts, nuts, or cotter pins. Includes pitman arm, drag link, knuckles, and tie rod

Front Suspension
1. Springs - attached to mounts securely, no cracks, not broken, shifted, or missing.
2. Spring mounts - front, middle (u bolts), and rear. Securely mounted to frame, not cracked, damaged, or missing. No missing nuts or bolts
3. Shock absorber - securely mounted at top and bottom. No cracks, leaks, or missing bolts

Front Brakes
1. Hoses/lines - all air hoses and lines are securely attached. Not cracked, damaged, or leaking
2. Chamber - secured to bracket, no dents or air leaks. C clamp tight around chamber
3. Slack adjuster & push rod - no broken or missing bolts or pins. With brakes released push rod does not more more than 1" when pulled by hand. Point out slack adjuster and push rod separately
4. Drums (rotors if disc) - no cracks, damage, or missing bolts. No oil/grease from inner wheel seal
5. Linings - same as drums AND can't be worn dangerously thin

Front Wheels
1. Tires (ICD) - proper Inflation, good Condition (no cuts/damage. Even wear), Depth min. of 4/32"
2. Rim - no cracks or damage. Not welded or bent
3. Lug nuts - none missing, all tight. No rust trails behind nuts, or shiny threads, that would indicate looseness
4. Hub oil seal - (inner/outer) if possible check level. Bolts tight and no leaks

Drivers' door area
1. Mirror - securely attached, not cracked, clean
2. Door - opens and closes, hinges attached to door and frame, no damage
3. Fuel tank - securely mounted by straps, no damage or leaks. Cap on tight with good rubber seal
4. Lights/reflectors - any side marker lights or reflectors clean (amber), working, not missing or broken

Back of Cab (abc's)
1. Air/electrical lines - no cuts, cracks, or air leaks. Electrical lines not splices or taped. All lines not dragging on the catwalk or any part of frame. Securely attached at tractor.
2. Battery/box - NO LONGER ON TEST
3. Catwalk/steps - securely mounted to frame. No debris or loose objects. Includes steps to cab
4. Drive shaft - not bent, twisted, nothing wrapped around. U joints greased and secure
5. Exhaust - (from engine to end of exhaust pope, including under cab) not leaking, secure, no holes or damage
6. Frame - (from front to back) is straight, not cracked, damaged, or welded
7. Lights/reflectors - utility light and/or reflectors are clean, working, not broken

Rear Suspension
1. Springs - attached to mounts securely, no cracks, not broken, shifted, or missing.
2. Sprint mounts - front, middle (u bolts), and rear. Securely mounted to frame, not cracked, damaged, or missing. No missing nuts or bolts
3. Shock absorber - securely mounted at top and bottom. No cracks, leaks, or missing bolts
4. Torque rod/control arm - assembly is securely mounted, not cracked, damaged
5. Air bags - not leaking, securely mounted at top and bottom, not damaged

Rear Brakes
1. Hoses/lines - all air hoses and lines securely attached. Not cracked, damaged, or leaking
2. Chamber - secured to bracket, no dents or air leaks. C clamp tight around chamber
3. Slack adjuster and push rod - no broken or missing bolts or pins. With brakes released push rod does not move more than 1" when pulled by hand. Identify slack adjuster and push rod separately
4. Drums - not cracked or damaged. No oil or grease from inner wheel seal
5. Linings - same as drums AND can't be worn dangerously thin

Rear Wheels
1. Tires (ICD) - proper Inflation, good Condition (no cuts/damage. Even wear), Depth min. of 2/32"
2. Rim - no cracks or damage. Not welded or bent
3. Lug nuts - none missing, all right. No rust trails behind nuts, or shiny threads, that would indicate looseness
4. Hub axle seal - (inner/outer) bolts tight and no leaks
5. Space - check that tires are not touching and no debris stuck between tires. If Dayton wheels, check that spacer ring is not cracked and keeps tire/wheels evenly spaced

Fifth Wheel Components
1. Mounting bolts - no loose or missing brackets, clamps, bolts, or nuts. Fifth wheel and slide firmly attached to frame
2. Release arm - is in the locked position (in), and any safety latch is in place
3. Locking pins - (sliding 5th wheel) no loose, missing, or damaged pins and in the locked position (out). Air line not leaking. Frame of tractor does not touch trailer landing gear when turning
4. Kingpin/Apron/Gap - kingpin is not bent or damaged. Apron is smooth not warped or cracked. There is no gap or space between the apron and top of the 5th wheel.
5. Locking jaws - closed and locked around the shank of the kingpin
6. Platform - no cracks or breaks. Securely holds the fifth wheel skid plate. No missing bolts/nuts
7. Skid Plate - properly greased, tilts freely, and mounted securely to platform

Back of tractor
1. Lights/reflectors - clean, working, not broken, proper color (red). Includes tail, turn, brake, hazard, and back up (clear)
2. Splash guards - secure, not damaged or missing, not dragging the ground

Front of trailer
1. Air/electrical lines - no cuts, cracks, or air leaks. Air lines are secure at the glad hands and have good rubber grommets. Electrical lines not spliced or taped. Locked in place at front of trailer
2. Headerboard - No damage, no missing rivets. Keeps cargo from sliding forward
3. Lights/reflectors - clean, working, not broken, proper color (amber)

Side of trailer
1. Landing gear - securely attached. Fully raised, handle stowed away. Framework/supports not bent or damaged. No missing parts
2. Frame - no cracks or bends in cross members and rails. No holes in floor.
3. Lights/reflectors/ABS light - clean/working, not broken, (amber in front/middle, red on rear)
4. Sliding tandem - (if equipped) locking pins out. Handle secure and in locked position (in)

Note: Cover one trailer axle (Suspension, Brakes, Wheels) just like drive axle on tractor

Rear of trailer
1. Lights/reflectors - clean, working, not broken, proper color (red). Includes tail, turn, brake, hazard, and marker lights. Check license plate light (clear)
2. Doors - open and close, locked. Hinges attached to door and frame, no damage. If roll up door, no broken cables or panels. Latches and hooks on door and sides (ties) not missing or broken
3. Splash guards - secure, not damaged or missing, not dragging the ground

In Cab Inspection
1. Safe start - Parking brake set, transmission in neutral, depress clutch, start engine, slowly release clutch
2. Oil pressure - oil pressure rises within a few seconds. Approx 40 psi. Warning light out
3. Coolant temperature - temperature slowly rises to between 170 - 210 degrees
4. Voltmeter - should register between 12-14 volts
5. Air gauge - working properly. Pressure should build to governor cut-out, roughly 120-140 psi
6. Mirrors - clean, not cracked and properly adjusted
7. Windshield - clean, not cracked, no stickers or obstructions in drivers field of vision
8. Heater/defroster - check that both function properly (blows out on windshield and vents/floor)
9. Parking brake - check tractor and trailer separately. Put vehicle in gear. Make sure it doesn't roll
10. Wipers/washers - blades working properly. Not worn/damaged. Attached to arms. Washer works
11. Horn(s) - check that horn(s) work
12. Lighting indicators - left, right, 4 way, high beam, and ABS indicators work
13. Safety items - seat belt works properly. Not cut or torn. Attached properly. (FET) Have spare fuses, unless circuit breakers. Fire extinguisher should be 10BC, charged/secure. 3 red reflective triangles
14. Service brake - pull forward slowly, apply the brake and stop. Vehicle should not pull to either side

Air brake check (Begin with air pressure at approx. 90 psi) (Automatic failure if done incorrectly)
1. With air pressure built to governor cut-out (120-140 psi) Shut off engine. Turn key back on so gauges work. Release brakes by pushing in both air valves. Hold brake pedal down for 1 minute and make sure that air pressure does not drop more than 4 psi for combination units with air brake equipped trailer (3 psi for single vehicle)
2. Pump brake pedal until pressure drops to approximately 60 psi and make sure warning light and/or buzzer come on
3. Pump brake pedal until pressure is approx 40psi. Look and listen for both valves to pop out. (Do not pull the valves out by hand)

Note: ProSafe CDL provides this information as a courtesy to our customers. All information is presumed to be accurate and up-to-date. The company assumes no responsibility for misprints, out-of-date, or otherwise inaccurate information. Please refer to the current Indiana CDL manual for all CDL skills testing requirements.