Does anyone have a copy of the Pre Trip sheet?

[Ya Dad]

Front of Tractor
1. Check lights - clean, working, no damage, proper color (amber or clear). Includes running lights, headlights, turn signals, hazards, fog
2. Check for leaks - no puddles or drips under the truck (oil, coolant, ps fluid, etc)

Engine Compartment
1. Oil - level, condition (no leaks)
2. Coolant - level, condition (no leaks)
3. Alternator - wires are right and not frayed. Alternator is not loose, no missing bolts
4. Water pump - no leaks (pump/hoses), mounted securely. Determine if water pump is belt/gear driven
5. Power steering fluid - level, no leaks from hoses
6. Air compressor - air lines not leaking, securely attached (determine if belt or gear driven)
7. Belts/hoses - tight, not cracked, worn, or frayed or leaking. Belt deflection should be 1/2" to 3/4". Be sure to identify what components each belt drives

Steering components
1. Gear box - box/hoses securely attached, not loose, cracked, or damaged. Not leaking
2. Linkage - not loose, worn or cracked. No missing bolts, nuts, or cotter pins. Includes pitman arm, drag link, knuckles, and tie rod

Front Suspension
1. Springs - attached to mounts securely, no cracks, not broken, shifted, or missing.
2. Spring mounts - front, middle (u bolts), and rear. Securely mounted to frame, not cracked, damaged, or missing. No missing nuts or bolts
3. Shock absorber - securely mounted at top and bottom. No cracks, leaks, or missing bolts

Front Brakes
1. Hoses/lines - all air hoses and lines are securely attached. Not cracked, damaged, or leaking
2. Chamber - secured to bracket, no dents or air leaks. C clamp tight around chamber
3. Slack adjuster & push rod - no broken or missing bolts or pins. With brakes released push rod does not more more than 1" when pulled by hand. Point out slack adjuster and push rod separately
4. Drums (rotors if disc) - no cracks, damage, or missing bolts. No oil/grease from inner wheel seal
5. Linings - same as drums AND can't be worn dangerously thin

Front Wheels
1. Tires (ICD) - proper Inflation, good Condition (no cuts/damage. Even wear), Depth min. of 4/32"
2. Rim - no cracks or damage. Not welded or bent
3. Lug nuts - none missing, all tight. No rust trails behind nuts, or shiny threads, that would indicate looseness
4. Hub oil seal - (inner/outer) if possible check level. Bolts tight and no leaks

Drivers' door area
1. Mirror - securely attached, not cracked, clean
2. Door - opens and closes, hinges attached to door and frame, no damage
3. Fuel tank - securely mounted by straps, no damage or leaks. Cap on tight with good rubber seal
4. Lights/reflectors - any side marker lights or reflectors clean (amber), working, not missing or broken

Back of Cab (abc's)
1. Air/electrical lines - no cuts, cracks, or air leaks. Electrical lines not splices or taped. All lines not dragging on the catwalk or any part of frame. Securely attached at tractor.
2. Battery/box - NO LONGER ON TEST
3. Catwalk/steps - securely mounted to frame. No debris or loose objects. Includes steps to cab
4. Drive shaft - not bent, twisted, nothing wrapped around. U joints greased and secure
5. Exhaust - (from engine to end of exhaust pope, including under cab) not leaking, secure, no holes or damage
6. Frame - (from front to back) is straight, not cracked, damaged, or welded
7. Lights/reflectors - utility light and/or reflectors are clean, working, not broken

Rear Suspension
1. Springs - attached to mounts securely, no cracks, not broken, shifted, or missing.
2. Sprint mounts - front, middle (u bolts), and rear. Securely mounted to frame, not cracked, damaged, or missing. No missing nuts or bolts
3. Shock absorber - securely mounted at top and bottom. No cracks, leaks, or missing bolts
4. Torque rod/control arm - assembly is securely mounted, not cracked, damaged
5. Air bags - not leaking, securely mounted at top and bottom, not damaged

Rear Brakes
1. Hoses/lines - all air hoses and lines securely attached. Not cracked, damaged, or leaking
2. Chamber - secured to bracket, no dents or air leaks. C clamp tight around chamber
3. Slack adjuster and push rod - no broken or missing bolts or pins. With brakes released push rod does not move more than 1" when pulled by hand. Identify slack adjuster and push rod separately
4. Drums - not cracked or damaged. No oil or grease from inner wheel seal
5. Linings - same as drums AND can't be worn dangerously thin

Rear Wheels
1. Tires (ICD) - proper Inflation, good Condition (no cuts/damage. Even wear), Depth min. of 2/32"
2. Rim - no cracks or damage. Not welded or bent
3. Lug nuts - none missing, all right. No rust trails behind nuts, or shiny threads, that would indicate looseness
4. Hub axle seal - (inner/outer) bolts tight and no leaks
5. Space - check that tires are not touching and no debris stuck between tires. If Dayton wheels, check that spacer ring is not cracked and keeps tire/wheels evenly spaced

Fifth Wheel Components
1. Mounting bolts - no loose or missing brackets, clamps, bolts, or nuts. Fifth wheel and slide firmly attached to frame
2. Release arm - is in the locked position (in), and any safety latch is in place
3. Locking pins - (sliding 5th wheel) no loose, missing, or damaged pins and in the locked position (out). Air line not leaking. Frame of tractor does not touch trailer landing gear when turning
4. Kingpin/Apron/Gap - kingpin is not bent or damaged. Apron is smooth not warped or cracked. There is no gap or space between the apron and top of the 5th wheel.
5. Locking jaws - closed and locked around the shank of the kingpin
6. Platform - no cracks or breaks. Securely holds the fifth wheel skid plate. No missing bolts/nuts
7. Skid Plate - properly greased, tilts freely, and mounted securely to platform

Back of tractor
1. Lights/reflectors - clean, working, not broken, proper color (red). Includes tail, turn, brake, hazard, and back up (clear)
2. Splash guards - secure, not damaged or missing, not dragging the ground

Front of trailer
1. Air/electrical lines - no cuts, cracks, or air leaks. Air lines are secure at the glad hands and have good rubber grommets. Electrical lines not spliced or taped. Locked in place at front of trailer
2. Headerboard - No damage, no missing rivets. Keeps cargo from sliding forward
3. Lights/reflectors - clean, working, not broken, proper color (amber)

Side of trailer
1. Landing gear - securely attached. Fully raised, handle stowed away. Framework/supports not bent or damaged. No missing parts
2. Frame - no cracks or bends in cross members and rails. No holes in floor.
3. Lights/reflectors/ABS light - clean/working, not broken, (amber in front/middle, red on rear)
4. Sliding tandem - (if equipped) locking pins out. Handle secure and in locked position (in)

Note: Cover one trailer axle (Suspension, Brakes, Wheels) just like drive axle on tractor

Rear of trailer
1. Lights/reflectors - clean, working, not broken, proper color (red). Includes tail, turn, brake, hazard, and marker lights. Check license plate light (clear)
2. Doors - open and close, locked. Hinges attached to door and frame, no damage. If roll up door, no broken cables or panels. Latches and hooks on door and sides (ties) not missing or broken
3. Splash guards - secure, not damaged or missing, not dragging the ground

In Cab Inspection
1. Safe start - Parking brake set, transmission in neutral, depress clutch, start engine, slowly release clutch
2. Oil pressure - oil pressure rises within a few seconds. Approx 40 psi. Warning light out
3. Coolant temperature - temperature slowly rises to between 170 - 210 degrees
4. Voltmeter - should register between 12-14 volts
5. Air gauge - working properly. Pressure should build to governor cut-out, roughly 120-140 psi
6. Mirrors - clean, not cracked and properly adjusted
7. Windshield - clean, not cracked, no stickers or obstructions in drivers field of vision
8. Heater/defroster - check that both function properly (blows out on windshield and vents/floor)
9. Parking brake - check tractor and trailer separately. Put vehicle in gear. Make sure it doesn't roll
10. Wipers/washers - blades working properly. Not worn/damaged. Attached to arms. Washer works
11. Horn(s) - check that horn(s) work
12. Lighting indicators - left, right, 4 way, high beam, and ABS indicators work
13. Safety items - seat belt works properly. Not cut or torn. Attached properly. (FET) Have spare fuses, unless circuit breakers. Fire extinguisher should be 10BC, charged/secure. 3 red reflective triangles
14. Service brake - pull forward slowly, apply the brake and stop. Vehicle should not pull to either side

Air brake check (Begin with air pressure at approx. 90 psi) (Automatic failure if done incorrectly)
1. With air pressure built to governor cut-out (120-140 psi) Shut off engine. Turn key back on so gauges work. Release brakes by pushing in both air valves. Hold brake pedal down for 1 minute and make sure that air pressure does not drop more than 4 psi for combination units with air brake equipped trailer (3 psi for single vehicle)
2. Pump brake pedal until pressure drops to approximately 60 psi and make sure warning light and/or buzzer come on
3. Pump brake pedal until pressure is approx 40psi. Look and listen for both valves to pop out. (Do not pull the valves out by hand)

 

[Ya Dad]

Package car pretrip:

look underneath for stuff hanging
check lights
kick tires
check windshield wipers, make sure washer fluid comes out
sound horn
good to go

 

[542thruNthru]

I was yelled at by center manager for getting out and looking at my Headlites once ,,, it’s god dam daylight savings time ,,, get going !!!!
I smiled , then checked lugs for rust !! He was eventually fired for the numbers game ,,, smiled all day !!!’

I can understand why he was yelling. You were wasting time checking the "headlites". Next time check the headLIGHTS.

 

[Covemastah]

I can understand why he was yelling. You were wasting time checking the "headlites". Next time check the headLIGHTS.

Thank you professor Grammer

 

[old levi's]

Package car pretrip:

look underneath for stuff hanging
check lights
kick tires
check windshield wipers, make sure washer fluid comes out
sound horn
good to go

right, a truck with washers that work, right

 

[old levi's]

I was glad if the upper mount wipers touched the windshield at some point during their arc

 

[Ya Dad]

I don't know how you can drive any UPS vehicle in the rain with windshield wipers that don't work.

 

[trickpony1]

I guess checking the engine oil and coolant isn't important.

Start practicing now on how you're gonna explain a burned up engine.

 

[El Correcto]

Pre-Trip Inspection (Integrad) Flashcards | Quizlet
I have this marked in my phone as a favorite. My supervisor loves it so much I didn’t want to forget to make him watch me do it every morning.

 

[Bubblehead]

They didn't go over the pretrip at NSPT?

However, I haven’t completed a Pre-Trip since I finished school. While I remember the basics, I am a bit concerned about missing something small.

Dave, are you going to be a dick all the way up to your retirement date and exit of this site, on May 7th???

 

[El Correcto]

Finding something wrong with a package car is like finding a tip left by another driver. You get to hand off airs if management wants you to and go wait for the mechanics to fix the problem. Sometimes you get to refuse to drive it since it’s out of DOT compliance and not safe, you can then reload it into another package car telling them your going to miss business before leaving. I don’t get why anyone would skip this essential part of your day.

 

[Retiree]

Google UPS vehicle PreTrip. You will find various videos of both tractor and package car.

 

[UpstateNYUPSer(Ret)]

I guess checking the engine oil and coolant isn't important.

Start practicing now on how you're gonna explain a burned up engine.

We have a 22.3 who takes care of that for us.

 

[trickpony1]

We have a 22.3 who takes care of that for us.

Will he check my feedah tractor?

Oh wait...

 

[TheMachine]

For a company that bangs on so much about Driver appearance and high service standards....the very thing people actually see the most is a piece of . Although admittedly I just got put in a newer Freightliner, I still had to decon the inside.

It’s a shame you hop in a package car and you’re delighted that the heat works or the bulkhead door latch isn’t broken. The drivers door latch works and wait, there’s washer fluid??? I’m in a brand new package car here...

 

[scratch]

We had a Pre-trip Inspection Sheet for a Peak Season golf cart, that brilliant idea lasted one day.

 

[cosmo1]

We had a Pre-trip Inspection Sheet for a Peak Season golf cart, that brilliant idea lasted one day.

If I ever get down your way during peak, I'll stop by and teach your golf cart helper how to do a donut in one (and possibly tip it over).

Fun all day.

 

[rod]

Pre-Trip Inspection (Integrad) Flashcards | Quizlet
I have this marked in my phone as a favorite. My supervisor loves it so much I didn’t want to forget to make him watch me do it every morning.

How long does it take to do a legitimate pre-trip covering all those things?

 

[Box Ox]

"Does anyone have a copy of the Pre Trip sheet?"

No.

But I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

 

[ixtab]

Front of Tractor
1. Check lights - clean, working, no damage, proper color (amber or clear). Includes running lights, headlights, turn signals, hazards, fog
2. Check for leaks - no puddles or drips under the truck (oil, coolant, ps fluid, etc)

Engine Compartment
1. Oil - level, condition (no leaks)
2. Coolant - level, condition (no leaks)
3. Alternator - wires are right and not frayed. Alternator is not loose, no missing bolts
4. Water pump - no leaks (pump/hoses), mounted securely. Determine if water pump is belt/gear driven
5. Power steering fluid - level, no leaks from hoses
6. Air compressor - air lines not leaking, securely attached (determine if belt or gear driven)
7. Belts/hoses - tight, not cracked, worn, or frayed or leaking. Belt deflection should be 1/2" to 3/4". Be sure to identify what components each belt drives

Steering components
1. Gear box - box/hoses securely attached, not loose, cracked, or damaged. Not leaking
2. Linkage - not loose, worn or cracked. No missing bolts, nuts, or cotter pins. Includes pitman arm, drag link, knuckles, and tie rod

Front Suspension
1. Springs - attached to mounts securely, no cracks, not broken, shifted, or missing.
2. Spring mounts - front, middle (u bolts), and rear. Securely mounted to frame, not cracked, damaged, or missing. No missing nuts or bolts
3. Shock absorber - securely mounted at top and bottom. No cracks, leaks, or missing bolts

Front Brakes
1. Hoses/lines - all air hoses and lines are securely attached. Not cracked, damaged, or leaking
2. Chamber - secured to bracket, no dents or air leaks. C clamp tight around chamber
3. Slack adjuster & push rod - no broken or missing bolts or pins. With brakes released push rod does not more more than 1" when pulled by hand. Point out slack adjuster and push rod separately
4. Drums (rotors if disc) - no cracks, damage, or missing bolts. No oil/grease from inner wheel seal
5. Linings - same as drums AND can't be worn dangerously thin

Front Wheels
1. Tires (ICD) - proper Inflation, good Condition (no cuts/damage. Even wear), Depth min. of 4/32"
2. Rim - no cracks or damage. Not welded or bent
3. Lug nuts - none missing, all tight. No rust trails behind nuts, or shiny threads, that would indicate looseness
4. Hub oil seal - (inner/outer) if possible check level. Bolts tight and no leaks

Drivers' door area
1. Mirror - securely attached, not cracked, clean
2. Door - opens and closes, hinges attached to door and frame, no damage
3. Fuel tank - securely mounted by straps, no damage or leaks. Cap on tight with good rubber seal
4. Lights/reflectors - any side marker lights or reflectors clean (amber), working, not missing or broken

Back of Cab (abc's)
1. Air/electrical lines - no cuts, cracks, or air leaks. Electrical lines not splices or taped. All lines not dragging on the catwalk or any part of frame. Securely attached at tractor.
2. Battery/box - NO LONGER ON TEST
3. Catwalk/steps - securely mounted to frame. No debris or loose objects. Includes steps to cab
4. Drive shaft - not bent, twisted, nothing wrapped around. U joints greased and secure
5. Exhaust - (from engine to end of exhaust pope, including under cab) not leaking, secure, no holes or damage
6. Frame - (from front to back) is straight, not cracked, damaged, or welded
7. Lights/reflectors - utility light and/or reflectors are clean, working, not broken

Rear Suspension
1. Springs - attached to mounts securely, no cracks, not broken, shifted, or missing.
2. Sprint mounts - front, middle (u bolts), and rear. Securely mounted to frame, not cracked, damaged, or missing. No missing nuts or bolts
3. Shock absorber - securely mounted at top and bottom. No cracks, leaks, or missing bolts
4. Torque rod/control arm - assembly is securely mounted, not cracked, damaged
5. Air bags - not leaking, securely mounted at top and bottom, not damaged

Rear Brakes
1. Hoses/lines - all air hoses and lines securely attached. Not cracked, damaged, or leaking
2. Chamber - secured to bracket, no dents or air leaks. C clamp tight around chamber
3. Slack adjuster and push rod - no broken or missing bolts or pins. With brakes released push rod does not move more than 1" when pulled by hand. Identify slack adjuster and push rod separately
4. Drums - not cracked or damaged. No oil or grease from inner wheel seal
5. Linings - same as drums AND can't be worn dangerously thin

Rear Wheels
1. Tires (ICD) - proper Inflation, good Condition (no cuts/damage. Even wear), Depth min. of 2/32"
2. Rim - no cracks or damage. Not welded or bent
3. Lug nuts - none missing, all right. No rust trails behind nuts, or shiny threads, that would indicate looseness
4. Hub axle seal - (inner/outer) bolts tight and no leaks
5. Space - check that tires are not touching and no debris stuck between tires. If Dayton wheels, check that spacer ring is not cracked and keeps tire/wheels evenly spaced

Fifth Wheel Components
1. Mounting bolts - no loose or missing brackets, clamps, bolts, or nuts. Fifth wheel and slide firmly attached to frame
2. Release arm - is in the locked position (in), and any safety latch is in place
3. Locking pins - (sliding 5th wheel) no loose, missing, or damaged pins and in the locked position (out). Air line not leaking. Frame of tractor does not touch trailer landing gear when turning
4. Kingpin/Apron/Gap - kingpin is not bent or damaged. Apron is smooth not warped or cracked. There is no gap or space between the apron and top of the 5th wheel.
5. Locking jaws - closed and locked around the shank of the kingpin
6. Platform - no cracks or breaks. Securely holds the fifth wheel skid plate. No missing bolts/nuts
7. Skid Plate - properly greased, tilts freely, and mounted securely to platform

Back of tractor
1. Lights/reflectors - clean, working, not broken, proper color (red). Includes tail, turn, brake, hazard, and back up (clear)
2. Splash guards - secure, not damaged or missing, not dragging the ground

Front of trailer
1. Air/electrical lines - no cuts, cracks, or air leaks. Air lines are secure at the glad hands and have good rubber grommets. Electrical lines not spliced or taped. Locked in place at front of trailer
2. Headerboard - No damage, no missing rivets. Keeps cargo from sliding forward
3. Lights/reflectors - clean, working, not broken, proper color (amber)

Side of trailer
1. Landing gear - securely attached. Fully raised, handle stowed away. Framework/supports not bent or damaged. No missing parts
2. Frame - no cracks or bends in cross members and rails. No holes in floor.
3. Lights/reflectors/ABS light - clean/working, not broken, (amber in front/middle, red on rear)
4. Sliding tandem - (if equipped) locking pins out. Handle secure and in locked position (in)

Note: Cover one trailer axle (Suspension, Brakes, Wheels) just like drive axle on tractor

Rear of trailer
1. Lights/reflectors - clean, working, not broken, proper color (red). Includes tail, turn, brake, hazard, and marker lights. Check license plate light (clear)
2. Doors - open and close, locked. Hinges attached to door and frame, no damage. If roll up door, no broken cables or panels. Latches and hooks on door and sides (ties) not missing or broken
3. Splash guards - secure, not damaged or missing, not dragging the ground

In Cab Inspection
1. Safe start - Parking brake set, transmission in neutral, depress clutch, start engine, slowly release clutch
2. Oil pressure - oil pressure rises within a few seconds. Approx 40 psi. Warning light out
3. Coolant temperature - temperature slowly rises to between 170 - 210 degrees
4. Voltmeter - should register between 12-14 volts
5. Air gauge - working properly. Pressure should build to governor cut-out, roughly 120-140 psi
6. Mirrors - clean, not cracked and properly adjusted
7. Windshield - clean, not cracked, no stickers or obstructions in drivers field of vision
8. Heater/defroster - check that both function properly (blows out on windshield and vents/floor)
9. Parking brake - check tractor and trailer separately. Put vehicle in gear. Make sure it doesn't roll
10. Wipers/washers - blades working properly. Not worn/damaged. Attached to arms. Washer works
11. Horn(s) - check that horn(s) work
12. Lighting indicators - left, right, 4 way, high beam, and ABS indicators work
13. Safety items - seat belt works properly. Not cut or torn. Attached properly. (FET) Have spare fuses, unless circuit breakers. Fire extinguisher should be 10BC, charged/secure. 3 red reflective triangles
14. Service brake - pull forward slowly, apply the brake and stop. Vehicle should not pull to either side

Air brake check (Begin with air pressure at approx. 90 psi) (Automatic failure if done incorrectly)
1. With air pressure built to governor cut-out (120-140 psi) Shut off engine. Turn key back on so gauges work. Release brakes by pushing in both air valves. Hold brake pedal down for 1 minute and make sure that air pressure does not drop more than 4 psi for combination units with air brake equipped trailer (3 psi for single vehicle)
2. Pump brake pedal until pressure drops to approximately 60 psi and make sure warning light and/or buzzer come on
3. Pump brake pedal until pressure is approx 40psi. Look and listen for both valves to pop out. (Do not pull the valves out by hand)

how could you forget... make sure your insurance card is current...