zubenelgenubi
I'm a star
Probably yet another unnecessary update to the electrical code "because safety".
Tool talk
- Thread starter Brownslave688
- Start date
Probably yet another unnecessary update to the electrical code "because safety".
sailfish
Master of Karate and Friendship for Everyone
Honestly in my experience electrical code is pretty realistic and serves practical precaution. This was more likely a manufacturer design oversight.
oldngray
nowhere special
Maybe it was made to comply with an international code and makes no difference for the US?
sailfish
Master of Karate and Friendship for Everyone
Who knows. But nowhere with earth physics would it serve any arguable purpose whatsoever.
1BROWNWRENCH
Amatuer Malthusian
Use it if makes you feel better
zubenelgenubi
I'm a star
You can always make an argument for redundant safety measures. That doesn't necessarily mean they are necessary or even good. I've seen stuff that people have jury rigged where you can't actually point to any particular hazards, but it just "doesn't meet code."
I'm in favor of good solid electrical code. Some of it is just overboard, imho.
sailfish
Master of Karate and Friendship for Everyone
I took it for my ground screw stash.
Well, that's where I'm gonna have to disagree. Not all the code is strictly for safety. A good percent of it is for procedural consistency that "future-proofs" the installation and makes it safer and easier to work on. After having worked on absolute trash and complete dog
that was installed by hacks and homeowner dips that wasn't necessarily unsafe to run but was an absolute nightmare to work on, I can appreciate the intent of the code.
zubenelgenubi
I'm a star
If you can switch a breaker off, what else do you need to be safe? I'm being both funny and serious.
sailfish
Master of Karate and Friendship for Everyone
Inadequate ampacity from improper conductor sizes or overcurrent protection is a common offender I come across. This can cause fires and breakers that will never trip. Overpacked junction boxes can lead to kinked wires, skinned insulated, screws through wires, and heat buildup which will also reduce a conductor's ampacity. I've seen box connectors clamped too tight onto romex, which can eventually rub through into the wire; best case scenario is looking for a hellishly difficult short, worst case is a blatant fire hazard. Sheathed wire ran inside of conduit can build up excess heat depending on what it is powering. Some scenarios necessitate installation of a new circuit or the changing of a breaker on a live panel; if the panel is a rat's nest piece of
it will be difficult to find adequate clearance to work around energized parts. BX and MC that is twisted or kinked can separate and expose high voltage wires and touch them against the sharp metal edges of the armor. Boxes with wires that were cut too short can make it difficult to ensure proper splice connections which in turn can burn up components from excessive amp draw (plus they're a complete pain in the ass). Some of the stuff I can think of off the top of my head at least. But I know there's more.
MyTripisCut
Never bought my own handtruck
You’re one smart plumber….
sailfish
Master of Karate and Friendship for Everyone
Ain't I?
zubenelgenubi
I'm a star
Very industrial chic. I've scrapped a bunch of rear-projection TV's and saved the different color lenses that go over the crt projectors. I plan to build a hanging pendant light with the lenses joined together around the bulb in a globe shape. Like the style in the pic below, but the circles would be green, red and clear lenses.
sailfish
Master of Karate and Friendship for Everyone
When I made that one my goal was for it to be built entirely out of commercial electrical construction parts with nothing makeshift or purely for decoration. With that out of the way, I'd like to make one of those iron pipe lamps.
zubenelgenubi
I'm a star
I was going to ask about doing iron pipe. Maybe you can use leftover conduit for one too.
sailfish
Master of Karate and Friendship for Everyone
I considered it. You could but regular EMT conduit is kinda soft so it's light and easy to bend, so I personally don't think it'd be that great for something like a lamp because it could get damaged too easily. You could use rigid conduit but I find that it's typically only used in really heavy industrial settings so the variety of nipple lengths stocked at regular hardware stores seems to be pretty limited. You would have to use conduit bodies to get the sharp 90s needed which having a ton of those in such a small space as a lamp would look kinda sloppy, which is why I ended up not doing it. At least iron fittings will keep everything looking compact and clean.
