Ask a Feeder Driver, Feeder Driver FAQ

[brostalss]

A month into my Feeder career. I LOVE IT! This is just awesome dispite the weird hours and Sleeper runs. I see my Wife more now. My body doesn't hurt anymore. Getting paid to drive down the coast from Santa Barbara to LA at 7:00am 50 yards from the ocean.(one run I did as an example) I regret not going Feeder a couple of years ago.

 

[silenze]

Any word out of the FNN on this: In addition, the National Committee has successfully negotiated a provision to pull many loads that are currently moved by the railroad off of the rails and move those loads to newly created sleeper teams, resulting in at least 2000 new full-time jobs for the members.

I wouldn't hold your breath on that. We have a massive problem with subcontractors nationwide. They also love to force mileage back to hourly during peak and subcontract the mileage runs.

 

[Rick Ross]

I wouldn't hold your breath on that. We have a massive problem with subcontractors nationwide. They also love to force mileage back to hourly during peak and subcontract the mileage runs.

In my building they pull rail work from some of our sleeper teams but usually add quite a few peek mileage runs ifor us.

I've been told contractors are too unreliable for the air work.

 

[Dracula]

Maybe off-topic, but I've heard a lot of drivers, here, locally and on the various feeder Facebook pages complaining about how bad the Kenworths are when backing under a trailer. To be charitable, the acceleration is, um, delayed. Which leads to slamming into the pin of the trailer like you are hoping to have neck surgery.

With the delayed reaction between our foot and the movement of the tractor, the fifth-wheel drags on the lip of the trailer, and our instinct is to give it a little more gas. Too much gas, it turns out, because it takes a little more momentum to lift the trailer up on the fifth-wheel. And when we do that: BAM!

If anyone is interested, or anyone hasn't been shown, our safety committee had a really good demonstration on how to prevent this. I know, I know, who knew the safety committee was good for anything other than some extra OT?

Anyway, what they showed us worked out perfectly. Also, it demonstrated how bad UPS is when it comes to giving us basic, common-sense information on the equipment we use everyday.

Also, I should say this works perfectly when the driver before you sets the legs to the proper height. I promise not to go on a rant about drivers that crank the legs all the way down--you know who you are. Or maybe you morons don---never mind.

What they showed us, was to back up your fifth-wheel a few feet in front of the trailer, then drain the air bags. Wait 10 seconds or so, or however long it takes to empty the bags and lower the rear wheels, then back the fifth-wheel completely under the lip of the trailer, but not far enough to hit the pin. Once you're under the trailer, turn the air back on to the bags. If the trailer is at the right height, you should see the trailer raise up a little bit as the air fills the bags.

Then, all you have to do is just give a little bit of gas in reverse, and the fifth-wheel grabs the pin with a CLICK instead of a BAM! The reason for this is because the plate of the fifth-wheel is already flush with the trailer since the air raised the fifth-wheel up level with the bottom of the trailer instead of having to go down and under the trailer, which stops the tractor until you give it more gas, which causes the lurching that causes in the BAM!

Genius!

Sorry if a lot of you already knew this, and we had this demonstration more than a year ago, but it really works.

Anyway, I just thought I would pass it on.

 

[Johney]

We were never told this when we got ours, but figured it out really quick and it does help. There was also a transmission upgrade done down here that made putting a trailer on the door nearly impossible to do w/o slamming into the wall not doing this took some time to master and also a tad dangerous side effect was when sitting in traffic the tractor will lurch forward w/o warning if you casually let off the brake or backing into a full rail box the tires would continue to spin in reverse after hook up and letting off the pedal. Nice tractors, but do have some gremlins.

 

[scoutlover]

I drive the new Kenworth's with the brake pedal in reverse. Put the tractor in reverse gear and put left foot on brake pedal and right foot on the throttle. Push throttle pedal anywhere from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and hold. Repeatedly release and press brake pedal with left foot to get desired speed. That works for hooking to a lead trailer, building sets, or the dreaded uphill back to a dock which is horrendous in these tractors.

 

[Rick Ross]

Turn off the hill assist and it is much easier to back or make a quick start through an intersection.

Just remember your tractor will roll when your foot comes off the brake pedal...don't do it on a steep incline unless you've practiced it a few times.

 

[Indecisi0n]

Maybe off-topic, but I've heard a lot of drivers, here, locally and on the various feeder Facebook pages complaining about how bad the Kenworths are when backing under a trailer. To be charitable, the acceleration is, um, delayed. Which leads to slamming into the pin of the trailer like you are hoping to have neck surgery.

With the delayed reaction between our foot and the movement of the tractor, the fifth-wheel drags on the lip of the trailer, and our instinct is to give it a little more gas. Too much gas, it turns out, because it takes a little more momentum to lift the trailer up on the fifth-wheel. And when we do that: BAM!

If anyone is interested, or anyone hasn't been shown, our safety committee had a really good demonstration on how to prevent this. I know, I know, who knew the safety committee was good for anything other than some extra OT?

Anyway, what they showed us worked out perfectly. Also, it demonstrated how bad UPS is when it comes to giving us basic, common-sense information on the equipment we use everyday.

Also, I should say this works perfectly when the driver before you sets the legs to the proper height. I promise not to go on a rant about drivers that crank the legs all the way down--you know who you are. Or maybe you morons don---never mind.

What they showed us, was to back up your fifth-wheel a few feet in front of the trailer, then drain the air bags. Wait 10 seconds or so, or however long it takes to empty the bags and lower the rear wheels, then back the fifth-wheel completely under the lip of the trailer, but not far enough to hit the pin. Once you're under the trailer, turn the air back on to the bags. If the trailer is at the right height, you should see the trailer raise up a little bit as the air fills the bags.

Then, all you have to do is just give a little bit of gas in reverse, and the fifth-wheel grabs the pin with a CLICK instead of a BAM! The reason for this is because the plate of the fifth-wheel is already flush with the trailer since the air raised the fifth-wheel up level with the bottom of the trailer instead of having to go down and under the trailer, which stops the tractor until you give it more gas, which causes the lurching that causes in the BAM!

Genius!

Sorry if a lot of you already knew this, and we had this demonstration more than a year ago, but it really works.

Anyway, I just thought I would pass it on.

I've learned that if you feather the gas lightly it doesn't happen as much.

 

[Yaba Daba Do]

We were never told this when we got ours, but figured it out really quick and it does help. There was also a transmission upgrade done down here that made putting a trailer on the door nearly impossible to do w/o slamming into the wall not doing this took some time to master and also a tad dangerous side effect was when sitting in traffic the tractor will lurch forward w/o warning if you casually let off the brake or backing into a full rail box the tires would continue to spin in reverse after hook up and letting off the pedal. Nice tractors, but do have some gremlins.

We only have a couple of the automatic Kenworth's at our building and anytime I would get one I hated backing up in them. They are great as long as you're moving forward but they make you look like you have no idea what you're doing when trying to back a trailer on a door. Then i had one as my asigned tractor for a bid and found out that the mechanics can hook up a laptop to it and change the transmission mode. Someone suggested having them put the transmission in "creep mode" or "creeper mode" or something. After they did it it was noticeably better. Not perfect by any means but better.

 

[Dracula]

Maybe off-topic, but I've heard a lot of drivers, here, locally and on the various feeder Facebook pages complaining about how bad the Kenworths are when backing under a trailer. To be charitable, the acceleration is, um, delayed. Which leads to slamming into the pin of the trailer like you are hoping to have neck surgery.

With the delayed reaction between our foot and the movement of the tractor, the fifth-wheel drags on the lip of the trailer, and our instinct is to give it a little more gas. Too much gas, it turns out, because it takes a little more momentum to lift the trailer up on the fifth-wheel. And when we do that: BAM!

If anyone is interested, or anyone hasn't been shown, our safety committee had a really good demonstration on how to prevent this. I know, I know, who knew the safety committee was good for anything other than some extra OT?

Anyway, what they showed us worked out perfectly. Also, it demonstrated how bad UPS is when it comes to giving us basic, common-sense information on the equipment we use everyday.

Also, I should say this works perfectly when the driver before you sets the legs to the proper height. I promise not to go on a rant about drivers that crank the legs all the way down--you know who you are. Or maybe you morons don---never mind.

What they showed us, was to back up your fifth-wheel a few feet in front of the trailer, then drain the air bags. Wait 10 seconds or so, or however long it takes to empty the bags and lower the rear wheels, then back the fifth-wheel completely under the lip of the trailer, but not far enough to hit the pin. Once you're under the trailer, turn the air back on to the bags. If the trailer is at the right height, you should see the trailer raise up a little bit as the air fills the bags.

Then, all you have to do is just give a little bit of gas in reverse, and the fifth-wheel grabs the pin with a CLICK instead of a BAM! The reason for this is because the plate of the fifth-wheel is already flush with the trailer since the air raised the fifth-wheel up level with the bottom of the trailer instead of having to go down and under the trailer, which stops the tractor until you give it more gas, which causes the lurching that causes in the BAM!

Genius!

Sorry if a lot of you already knew this, and we had this demonstration more than a year ago, but it really works.

Anyway, I just thought I would pass it on.

I've learned that if you feather the gas lightly it doesn't happen as much.

The problem isn’t so much the delayed response of the throttle—although it does suck—it’s when the fifth-wheel gets bogged down at the lip of the trailer. Then you have to gas it to get under it, which with the delayed acceleration is extremely hard to control. That’s when the whiplash comes.

 

[Yaba Daba Do]

The problem isn’t so much the delayed response of the throttle—although it does suck—it’s when the fifth-wheel gets bogged down at the lip of the trailer. Then you have to gas it to get under it, which with the delayed acceleration is extremely hard to control. That’s when the whiplash comes.

The throttle response drove me crazy. It wasn't just because it was delayed but it was inconsistent also. I would find the "sweet spot" one time and think okay I got this but when i would do the same thing the next time I would give myself whiplash when backing and eventually slam into the dock, especially when on a slight incline. Like scoutlover said, I would have to have one foot on the gas and one on the brake.

 

[Rick Ross]

The throttle response drove me crazy. It wasn't just because it was delayed but it was inconsistent also. I would find the "sweet spot" one time and think okay I got this but when i would do the same thing the next time I would give myself whiplash when backing and eventually slam into the dock, especially when on a slight incline. Like scoutlover said, I would have to have one foot on the gas and one on the brake.

The throttle is delayed because of the hill assist. After releasing the brakes the tractor holds the brakes longer so the tractor doesn't roll. Turn it off and it backs easier.

 

[Yaba Daba Do]

The throttle is delayed because of the hill assist. After releasing the brakes the tractor holds the brakes longer so the tractor doesn't roll. Turn it off and it backs easier.

Someone told me that when i first started driving them and I tried it and didn't notice a difference. I may have done something wrong and didn't actually turn it off as i was new to feeders then. I will try it again the next time I drive one.

 

[Indecisi0n]

The problem isn’t so much the delayed response of the throttle—although it does suck—it’s when the fifth-wheel gets bogged down at the lip of the trailer. Then you have to gas it to get under it, which with the delayed acceleration is extremely hard to control. That’s when the whiplash comes.

Once the tractor gets under the trailer if it doesn't catch I stop completely. Then I'll feather gas very lightly.

 

[Yaba Daba Do]

Once the tractor gets under the trailer and I'd it doesn't catch I stole completely. Then I'll feather gas very lightly.

I wish they would just buy all Mack's from now on. They have the best transmissions by far.

 

[ManInBrown]

Maybe off-topic, but I've heard a lot of drivers, here, locally and on the various feeder Facebook pages complaining about how bad the Kenworths are when backing under a trailer. To be charitable, the acceleration is, um, delayed. Which leads to slamming into the pin of the trailer like you are hoping to have neck surgery.

With the delayed reaction between our foot and the movement of the tractor, the fifth-wheel drags on the lip of the trailer, and our instinct is to give it a little more gas. Too much gas, it turns out, because it takes a little more momentum to lift the trailer up on the fifth-wheel. And when we do that: BAM!

If anyone is interested, or anyone hasn't been shown, our safety committee had a really good demonstration on how to prevent this. I know, I know, who knew the safety committee was good for anything other than some extra OT?

Anyway, what they showed us worked out perfectly. Also, it demonstrated how bad UPS is when it comes to giving us basic, common-sense information on the equipment we use everyday.

Also, I should say this works perfectly when the driver before you sets the legs to the proper height. I promise not to go on a rant about drivers that crank the legs all the way down--you know who you are. Or maybe you morons don---never mind.

What they showed us, was to back up your fifth-wheel a few feet in front of the trailer, then drain the air bags. Wait 10 seconds or so, or however long it takes to empty the bags and lower the rear wheels, then back the fifth-wheel completely under the lip of the trailer, but not far enough to hit the pin. Once you're under the trailer, turn the air back on to the bags. If the trailer is at the right height, you should see the trailer raise up a little bit as the air fills the bags.

Then, all you have to do is just give a little bit of gas in reverse, and the fifth-wheel grabs the pin with a CLICK instead of a BAM! The reason for this is because the plate of the fifth-wheel is already flush with the trailer since the air raised the fifth-wheel up level with the bottom of the trailer instead of having to go down and under the trailer, which stops the tractor until you give it more gas, which causes the lurching that causes in the BAM!

Genius!

Sorry if a lot of you already knew this, and we had this demonstration more than a year ago, but it really works.

Anyway, I just thought I would pass it on.

I wouldn’t know. I get stuck with all the junk tractors. Internationals and Sterlings.

Covered one job a few weeks ago with an automatic Mack. That was sweet.

 

[Yaba Daba Do]

I wish they would just buy all Mack's from now on. They have the best transmissions by far.

Although I will say we have a brand new Mack rental right now and while it is very nice, the turning radius is terrible and in addition to the beeping when someone cuts you off or you get too close to the car in front of you the radio also shuts off. That makes it almost impossible to listen to a podcast while in traffic.

 

[budlight]

Covered one job a few weeks ago with an automatic Mack. That was sweet.

It's all fun and games until you're trying to get through a corner in front of traffic and it shifts you from 3rd to 6th going up an incline and you fall flat on your face. I've even had the piece of *hit go from 2nd to 4th and have absolutely no throttle response. Umm, I'm trying to get through an intersection here. And then when you've come to a crawl it'll downshift to 3rd and give you power again. Then it'll shoot you to 2000 rpm's and shift to 6th. Absolute garbage.

 

[ManInBrown]

It's all fun and games until you're trying to get through a corner in front of traffic and it shifts you from 3rd to 6th going up an incline and you fall flat on your face. I've even had the piece of *hit go from 2nd to 4th and have absolutely no throttle response. Umm, I'm trying to get through an intersection here. And then when you've come to a crawl it'll downshift to 3rd and give you power again. Then it'll shoot you to 2000 rpm's and shift to 6th. Absolute garbage.

Yeah. The one weird thing i noticed the first night on the job was slowing down on an exit ramp getting off the highway it jumps as it’s downshifting. I’m trying to slow down here. Hello. Anyone home. Lol

 

[Knothead]

And to think someone at Kenworth certified this as OK. It's like it hasn't been tested in the real world. The trucks would probably be awesome if they were a 10 speed manual.