As others have said, you have to unlearn package. It’s hard, it’ll stick with you...but try to push it aside.

Study the COLA and pre-trip while at home / hotel. I took many photos of the tractor. Engine, tires, 5th wheel, cab, etc. Then I set them up in my hotel room and went over them in order. Take a break between each time. Eat. Read the news. Do another pretrip.

COLA is pass or fail. Be sure to get it word for word.

When you’re in the cab with the instructor, drive. Just drive. Focus on the road and the feel of the truck. People will be mad at you for whatever reason. Let them be mad. Just drive.

The rest will be natural. It’s a basic course really, as others have said. You’ll learn more from your fellow feeder drivers. Feel free to ask anyone questions.
Thanks A lot....I’ve been watching the Pre Trip
video daily and I know COLA has to do with the air breaks, what exactly would I need to know word for word if you don’t mind me asking you ?
 

Feeder665

Go big or go home!
Thanks A lot....I’ve been watching the Pre Trip
video daily and I know COLA has to do with the air breaks, what exactly would I need to know word for word if you don’t mind me asking you ?

Most dmv testers require you to say specific quotes about the cola. Some can be a tad more flexible but most want it word for word. They will make you show them in real time when it comes time to test. The point is what ever hand out they give you, your on road sup trainer has adjusted it to the specific tester in your area and get it down word for word.

Example: (others please chime in)

Between 75 and 55 psi an audio and visual alarm will sound.

Cut in is at 100psi (depends on truck)

Cut out is 130psi (again depends on truck) once needle settles. Not when you hear the valve.

Leak test. Set a stop watch for one minute. Push all air valves in and push foot on break. Should not have more than 4psi air leak in one minute.

I’ll see if I can find my old paperwork.
 
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Feeder665

Go big or go home!
4860E32C-974C-4B9F-9EF7-2CED034A8785.jpeg

This is what I was given to study for Cola test.
 

olroadbeech

Happy Verified UPSer
Also they will teach you the basics. The rest you're gonna learn from fellow Feeder drivers.

DON'T BE AFRAID TO ASK FOR HELP!!!!!!!!!!

Don't be that guy who had to break down a set just to turn around in a cul-de-sac because he didn't ask for directions. (True story)
Agree. The training is good and enough to get you the CDL but the real training is after you start in Feeder. You'll find that 90% plus feeder drivers are willing to help if you ask. Some newbies get offended if one of us come up to them in the yard and offer advice without them asking . Don't be that way. We all want you to SUCCEED.

We all started some time and all needed help at one time or another. There is no such thing as a stupid question in feeder. remember you could be pulling up to 80,000 pounds and that is pretty serious stuff.

you'll get thru the training but that is maybe 20% of feeder driving. the rest you will get from experience and other drivers. I drove for 34 years and was trying to learn something new EVERY DAY to be a better and safer driver. I even learned important things from new drivers. I even looked forward to the annual ride alongs to learn or relearn things that would make me a better driver. It's easy to get stale after awhile or to start taking short cuts.

The methods WORK. The 5 seeing habits WORK. The 10 point commentary WORKS. Learn them backward and forward.

good luck and please check back with your experiences. It will help others with similar questions.
 

olroadbeech

Happy Verified UPSer
Also they will teach you the basics. The rest you're gonna learn from fellow Feeder drivers.

DON'T BE AFRAID TO ASK FOR HELP!!!!!!!!!!

Don't be that guy who had to break down a set just to turn around in a cul-de-sac because he didn't ask for directions. (True story)
I did that one time in a bad hood in Oakland on a friday afternoon. was empty so practically dragged my rear to turn my around. even drove up on sidewalk . but when i straightened out was afraid that maybe an airline popped off halfway or pinched the lines so got out to inspect everything, that was a mistake but I took my bump bar with me and 3 bloods came up and started asking me for money. said I owed a toll for entering their hood. I walked very fast around the set bumping the tires as hard as I could and telling them I was broke and it was a payday and hadn't gotten paid.

was lucky that day. I'll admit I was scared. After that was damned sure I knew where I was going and if not would put 4 ways on and ask someone. ( this was before cell phones )
 

Hadjabear

Well-Known Member
You actually decrease the weight on the tractor drive axles as you move the trailer tandems forward.

I've had 100% LC's that were 22000 lbs on the drives, but the trailer tandems were not fully forward.

Slid them up 4 notches and left at 19500 lbs on the drives.
That's why I said 70%, when nothing is loaded behind the tandems you won't get much weight off the drive axle
 

Mugarolla

Light 'em up!
That's why I said 70%, when nothing is loaded behind the tandems you won't get much weight off the drive axle

Even if it is loaded behind the tandems, you will not lighten the load on the tractor drive wheels much, if any at all. A see-saw works because the fulcrum is in the middle. Put the fulcrum at the 3/4 mark, and you cannot add enough weight to lift the other side.

Moving the tandems changes the fulcrum point of the trailer in relation to downward force more so than adding a little extra weight behind the tandems.

Changing the tandem position on a 70% trailer, if all the weight is forward of the tandems, will not change the weight on the tractor drive wheels, much, if any at all.
 

Indecisi0n

Well-Known Member
Even if it is loaded behind the tandems, you will not lighten the load on the tractor drive wheels much, if any at all. A see-saw works because the fulcrum is in the middle. Put the fulcrum at the 3/4 mark, and you cannot add enough weight to lift the other side.

Moving the tandems changes the fulcrum point of the trailer in relation to downward force more so than adding a little extra weight behind the tandems.

Changing the tandem position on a 70% trailer, if all the weight is forward of the tandems, will not change the weight on the tractor drive wheels, much, if any at all.
You said fulcrum .
 

Johney

Well-Known Member
That's why I said 70%, when nothing is loaded behind the tandems you won't get much weight off the drive axle

Even if it is loaded behind the tandems, you will not lighten the load on the tractor drive wheels much, if any at all. A see-saw works because the fulcrum is in the middle. Put the fulcrum at the 3/4 mark, and you cannot add enough weight to lift the other side.

Moving the tandems changes the fulcrum point of the trailer in relation to downward force more so than adding a little extra weight behind the tandems.

Changing the tandem position on a 70% trailer, if all the weight is forward of the tandems, will not change the weight on the tractor drive wheels, much, if any at all.
More than a few times our mechanics have had to drive a 50 mile round trip to the southbound weigh station cause some rookie feeder driver coming from(cough,cough Jax cough, cough)had the wheels all the back on a trailer and was held at the station for being overweight and didn't know how to move them.
 

Indecisi0n

Well-Known Member
More than a few times our mechanics have had to drive a 50 mile round trip to the southbound weigh station cause some rookie feeder driver coming from(cough,cough Jax cough, cough)had the wheels all the back on a trailer and was held at the station for being overweight and didn't know how to move them.
We aren't shown how to move them and told never to touch them.
 
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